The Lightly Cured Hiramasa at K&L Bistro in Sebastopol is a yellowtail kingfish of which thin slices are cured in a light pickling and paired with thin slices of icy cold radishes. A pinch of radish sprouts is placed on the fish and the plate is given a visually beautiful, pastel green avocado cream.

Read the Review at the Press Democrat
February 20, 2010

DINING OUT
"Star Quality -
Owners of Sebastopol's K&L Bistro offer inventive, elegant cuisine"
by Jeff Cox

Something has happened at the K&L Bistro in Sebastopol in just the past few weeks. Something different. Something great. The food has taken a major leap forward in quality.
Why? Perhaps it was the sting of losing their one Michelin Guide star, when the 2009 edition last October demoted the place from one star to just a mention. Maybe Karen and Lucas Martin (the K and L of K&L) became re-enthused with the love of cooking. Maybe they got new ideas. Who knows?
But I know this: the bistro, which has always been very good, has become brilliant and every bit deserving of that Michelin star and maybe even a couple of them. And it's just happened recently.
To the Martins' unerring instinct for combining high-quality ingredients in interesting and delicious ways, they've added a star to their diadem: elegance. The most beautiful things are not usually the most ornate. Elegance means graceful, tasteful simplicity.
Take the Lightly Cured Hiramasa ($10 ****), for instance. Hiramasa is a yellowtail kingfish. Thin slices of this fresh fish are cured in a light pickle and paired with thin slices of icy cold radishes. A thumb and forefinger pinch of radish sprouts are placed on the fish and the plate is given a visually beautiful, pastel green avocado cream. This dish is simple, but stylish, concise and focused. It signals class and sophistication. That's where the Martins are taking their cuisine, and boy, is that ever the right direction.

K&L BISTRO Where: 119 S. Main St., Sebastopol When: Lunch Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday brunch from 10:30 to 3 p.m. Dinner Mondays through Thursdays from 5 to 9 p.m. and to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays
Reservations: Needed. Call 823-6614
Price range: Expensive, with entrees from $16.50 to $19.50
Wine list: ***
Ambiance: **½
Service: ***½
Food: ***½
Overall: ***½
****Extraordinary ***Very good **Good *Not very good 0Terrible